Welcome to this "foodie" tour through some of the most iconic dishes of Japanese gastronomy, linked to the tradition and history of the country.
I always thought that Japan would be like a Kurosawa movie.
The land of haikus exceeded my expectations and offered me much more than I had imagined and, in the absence of dramatic duels at sunset, I found that samurai heritage in the ceremoniousness, discipline and constant search for perfection in many areas, including gastronomy.
If the soul of a samurai is his katana, the soul of a country is its food; for there is no more authentic and universal way to know the essence of a place.
These are the 7 principles of bushido, the code of the warrior… These are the 7 dishes which marked my experience in Japan…
Integrity (gi) – Kobe Beef
Although it turned out that the port city hid many surprises, what drew me to it was the fame of its certified meat.
Tasting Kobe beef is an experience that goes beyond the culinary and verges on the spiritual.
From the moment your private chef presents the piece, everything takes on a certain theatrical air.
The marbled veins of the meat are too perfect to be the fruit of nature and the cooking can only be understood from a deep respect for the raw material and the discipline required to master the steel and the fire.
The flesh has a golden brownish tone, with a pinkish interior.
It has a mild but succulent flavor and the texture, oddly enough, is almost creamy.
Grilled vegetables, salt and pepper.
That’s all it takes.
Respect (rei) – Traditional breakfast in Japan
Sunrise in Hakone.
A soft light filters through the window paper as I put on my yukata.
Already in the dining room, I walk barefoot on the tatami and sit at the low table, contemplating the bamboo forest that surrounds the ryokan.
The food arrives with hardly any waiting: rice, tea, a selection of pickles(tsukemono), grilled salmon and a thick miso broth with king crab.
It’s certainly not my usual breakfast, but that’s one of the great advantages of travel… Getting out of the ordinary, seeking new experiences and tasting just a taste of other lives.
It’s not my usual breakfast, and lucky me.
Value (yu) – Duck & Rice
Gion, the geisha quarter; a subway passage and a promise in the form of a luminous sign: Duck & Rice.
These two ingredients shape the menu of a hidden gem in Kyoto.
On a bed of rice, the chef places the blowtorch-broiled duck and, right in the center, an egg yolk topped with sea urchin and grated truffle.
A flask, a flask and other utensils make up an improvised decanter in which the meat broth meets the katsuobushi, dried bonito flakes.
All the elements of the dish end up mixed in a careful balance of flavors and textures in which the duck remains the absolute protagonist.
Hidden among the whirlwind of stimuli that is Kyoto, with only six seats, this discreet family restaurant unites the principles of Japanese cuisine with an original approach, standing out from the crowd like a cherry tree in a garden.
Honor (meiyo) – The Whisky of Japan
Trying Japanese whiskey was one of my must during the trip.
Finally, I achieved my goal in a small bar in Tokyo… Upon entering, a soft and warm light greeted you with a first sip of melancholy and a certain air of American blues.
High stools, a wide bar and hundreds of bottles of whiskey, displayed on an aged wooden shelf.
The bartender, wearing a vest and bow tie, advises and guides us through the bottles.
He prepares the glass, carves the ice block into a perfect spherical shape and pours the amber elixir.
I start with small sips, trying to draw out notes I don’t quite understand, while my feet follow Otis Rush’s guitar plucking.
When we finish, the bartender accompanies us to the street, bows goodbye and returns to his small bar.
As I walk away, in the silence of the Tokyo night, I hear the rhythmic tapping of the knife against the ice.
Compassion (jin) – Honey Cheese Tartlet
Japanese sweets and pastries are a gastronomic experience of another level.
A comforting snack prepared with delicacy and care; a safe haven to regain strength and spirits after the long walks that shape a trip.
Of the (vast) variety of desserts I encountered along the way, there was one that especially stuck in my memory: a small tartlet, filled with honey and cheese, found only in Yumoto, the gateway to the Hakone Mountains.
Simple and neat in appearance, with its characteristic hexagonal shape, this artisan treat was pure perfection, with a crunchy cookie and a light cream cheese in which the taste of honey was noticeable.
Eating it still warm, while strolling along the Haya River, became one of the best memories of my time in Hakone.
Honesty (makoto) – Gyozas
In the extravagant, cosmopolitan and excessive Japanese capital, there are still corners where it is easy to forget that you are in the largest city in the world.
In Kameido, a neighborhood with a sixties atmosphere, I found a family restaurant that was able to transport me to that other Tokyo.
The establishment in question is small and cozy, with the kitchen in full view and the walls covered with old Asahi beer posters.
The surprised looks of the other diners confirm to me that this is not a place frequented by tourists.
Barefoot and sitting on the tatami, I discover that their signature dish is also their only dish: meat and vegetable gyozas, with no additions or garnishes.
Doubts invade me for a second, accustomed to variety and free will, but they dissipate with the first bite.
I am in front of the epitome of gyozas; with a filling as abundant as tasty and a perfect balance between steaming and grilling.
Homemade elaboration, know-how and love are the basis of this place, which delves into the roots of its product and invites everyone who opens its door to get lost in a sincere and real taste.
Loyalty (chu) – Ramen
Although I was not traveling alone, my great companion in Japan was not a person, but a food. One of the pillars of modern Japanese gastronomy and a personal favorite.
Ramen, that dish of wheat noodles floating on a dense beef broth, accompanied by chasu (bacon), egg, scallions, bean sprouts and endless possibilities.
It is impossible for me to choose or highlight just one of my experiences with ramen, as each dish is a reflection of the personality and essence of the restaurant that serves it and a frenzy for the palate, where each ingredient adds flavor and nuances to the whole.
What for many Japanese is a quick and convenient option to quell hunger becomes a delicacy in the eyes of the traveler.
A must that never fails, that is always there.
